Staked Stand-Part 2-Complete

hb-hobby-final- - 8It is almost physically impossible for me to resist adding some sort of embellishment to the pieces that I make.  Kolrosing, wood burning and then there is my fondness for adding texture.  This little stand is built specifically to hold my hobby tansu.  The tansu has a bit of texture added with a nail set and that texture was highlighted with the help of a wood burning tool.  So I wanted to repeat some of this texture on the stand to make the two pieces seem like more of a cohesive unit.

I’m still struggling to get back into the swing of taking photos for this blog.  Right now I’m just happy to have a few minutes in the shop here and there.  So no “action” photos but I’ll do my best to describe what I did to add decorative touches to this stand.

beading_tool-00Using the same nail set that I used on the tansu, I added some texture to the heavy bevel at the lower edge of top plank.  The only tricky part is keep your sanity after about an hour of tap, tap, tap.  Beer helps by the way.

Once the texture was done I took my poor man’s beading tool (a slotted screw in a block of wood) and scratched a shallow groove centered on the remaining flat edge of the slab top.  My hope was that this would help to lighten the look of stand when it is in stool mode.  This is where the wood burning tool comes into play.

burner_tip-00My wood burning tool is a cheap hobby model that is going on about 15-16 years old.  It’s slow to heat up and even slower to recover heat while in use.  But it’s a little faster than using a match.   Anyway, I first burned in the groove that I had scratched around the top slab.  Then I started the long journey of darkening the areas that I textured earlier.  Burn a little, wait for the tool to heat back up, and then burn a little more.  Once that was finally complete, I burned in a solid line around the lower edge of the slab as well as around the upper edge.  Feeling pretty good with that work I decided to take the wood burning a little further.

Using the standard tip that the tool came with, I burned in a “leaf” motif around the foot of the leg and at the top of leg.  I also did a little light burning on the arrises of the leg facets.  I wanted this corner burning to have a hit-and-miss effect and did a little light sanding after all the burning was done.

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All that remained was to add a finish.  I went with a linseed oil finish.  So each day this week I added a coat of oil.  First, a couple of coats of my tinted linseed oil concoction and then a couple of coats of Tried and True Original oil finish.

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Well, that’s about it for my first foray into staked furniture.  I’m happy with how it came together and I think it looks quite nice, YMMV.  This simple little project helped me to wrap my mind around the process.  I’m pretty good at reading and learning, better with visual, but to truly understand a thing, I have to do it.  Now that I have my feet wet, I can say that I like the process and have several projects rattling around in my head.

Part 1 Greg Merritt

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11 Responses to Staked Stand-Part 2-Complete

  1. Coisas EM'adeira says:

    You may got crazy (punching the nail set for a few hours….I’ll say no more words about you and the burning tools – just in case your wife reads this – but it was a shock to me :O), but the result looks like both of the pieces were made just as one.
    I LIKE IT!
    Well done

  2. Brian Eve says:

    I agree. It turned out as if you designed the pieces together.

    • Greg Merritt says:

      Thanks again Brian. I’m actually surprised at how well the two vastly different “styles” of furniture look when paired together. What started out as an experiment in staked furniture, has led to a whole host of new project ideas.

  3. The photo looks great I never expected to see something like this it’s very artistic from you and high calibre work. In fact I like it so much that I would place in a gallery. You mentioned about nail setting or tapping actually now imagine living in France and working for logier, I often wondered about that tapping away God knows how many rasps they turn over by hand.

    From experience that tool should never cool down down unless you were using it outside, my razertip I bought 4 or 5 years ago never cools down unless I have the garage door open and it’s windy. I’m not sure as to the quality of the tool you have but I think that plays a big part in the tools functionality and usability. I can imagine how frustrating that must of been for you, maybe you should look at upgrading, mine cost me then about I think $350 or $400 I know it’s not cheap but no quality tool is but on the other hand if your satisfied with it then keep going with it.

    • Greg Merritt says:

      Wow! Thank you Salko.

      I can see where making hand-cut rasps could become somewhat meditative after a time. But short term…I would lose my mind!

      Yep, I’m on the hunt to upgrade my wood burning tool. What I have is a cheap hobby tool. I’m sure I paid no more than $10-$15US for it several years ago. Since wood burning elements have worked their way way in to my “style”, I’m fully prepared to pony up for a quality tool. I’ve looked at the Razertip and a couple of others. Do you use fixed tip pens or replaceable tip? Advantages/disadvantages?

      • I use replaceable but I’m definitely no expert on the subject, mine is dual and variable heat so I can plug in 2 pens at the same time. So far I’ve only used it on 2 clocks only. At the time the Razertip was the most recommended brand and the most expensive. You get a few replaceable tips with it and there are many other available ones as well.

        • Greg Merritt says:

          Thanks for the info Salko. I’m still in the research phase. Who knew there were so many options for wood burning tools? It’s a lot to wade thru. Most seem specifically geared for fine detail work. My focus is mostly on areas of large shading.

          • Yes and that’s waty I got it for, I used it on the bird clock to draw the veins and stems of branches and leaves but I really would like to be proficient with it and actually draw with it rather than make lines. There are a lot of tips available and I think I did read somewhere that you can make your own tips, after all they are just wires well not all wires but the ones I have are or should I say use. I just have problems in maintaining the right amount of pressure to get a consistent burn. Some spots I tend to over burn and others under burn. One of these days I’ll devote an entire week or two in nothing but Pyrography. There is so much to learn and only one life time to do it in

  4. Matt McGrane says:

    Came out nice, Greg. Add another technique to your arsenal.

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