This is what I opened the door to, but soldiered on.
I clamped the case assembly up tight so that I could fit the back panels. Checked the case for square figuring I would have to rack it a little one way or the other. But it checked out fine as it sat. I did discover an issue though. The width at the top was 1.5mm less than at the bottom. When cutting the bottom panel to fit into the dado I must have left too much line. The quick and easy fix was to run the router plane across the bottom of the end panel dados and give them a little more depth. Problem solved.
The top edge of the back panels were run thru the shooting board and then trimmed for height. I decided to use a simple shiplap joint were the two panels meet each other and the rebate plane made quick work of this.
Then I trimmed the width of each panel, leaving a little extra for final planing after they are installed.
I decided to tackle the handle recesses next. This detail is directly from the original and I’m not entirely sure about its utility. More of a finger hold than a handle but we will see how well it works.
The layout was pulled directly from the full-scale drawing. To cut the recess I first used a gouge to mark the corner radii. All I have is a standard carving gouge, so the bevel is on the outside. Not the best option since I want the walls of the recess to be vertical, but workable.
Then I used a square and knife to connect the incised corners.
The waste is removed pretty much the same as when making a dado.
Pare. The hammer is used to add precision not brute force.
Level it with a router plane.
I then added a little texture to the recessed area.
Then out came the wood burner.
I think this will look pretty good once the oil finish is applied. As is, the contrast looks a little stark, but the oil will darken the pine as well as tone down the burnt areas. At least that’s the plan.